The strip of coast between Genoa and Sestri Levante is a ribbon of splendour and emotions winding through rugged cliffs, sandy coves, pine forests, Mediterranean villas, seaside pastel villages and exclusive resorts. The Riviera di Levante is the triumph of light and colour, where the air is salty and scenting of mimosa. The Via Aurelia runs parallel to the coast, then dramatically ascends to Ruta, plunges inland behind the Portofino promontory, returns to the sea, flanks elegant bays dotted with yachts and finally reaches the enchantment of the Baia del Silenzio.
Enjoy a sentimental journey, both intense and touching, and plan your holiday complying with your curiosity and feelings. Start your tour in the Golfo Paradiso, a sequence of seaside villages lying in the sun and enjoying the mildest of climate all year round. Discover the appeal of Bogliasco, Pieve Ligure and Sori, on the coast, and the rural tranquillity of hill hamlets set among olive groves and glasshouses – thanks to its secluded beauty, the area figures head of the list in the Genoese’s choice.
The next stop along the route is Recco, “ville gastronomique” par excellence of the whole region – this is in fact the homeland of exquisite focaccia col formaggio, a gourmet treat exerting its fragrant spell on national and international foodies. From Recco, you would better reach Camogli along the pleasant corniche siding the coast (on your way back, do not miss the scenic meandering road from Ruta). Protected by the jealous hug of the Monte di Portofino, Camogli simply “is” the symbol of seaside Ligurian villages, a labyrinth of carruggi, vaults and stairways leading to the stunning beauty of the palazzata a mare, a pastel background against the immensity of the sea. The local taste for seafaring shows everywhere, from the rooms of the Museo G. B. Ferrari, focusing on the glorious maritime past of the centre, to the fisherman boats of the porticciolo, ready to weigh anchor. The theatrical dimension of Camogli is at its top in the piazzetta below the chiesa dell’Assunta and the Castle, a stage on the water surrounded by porticoes, botteghe and restaurants – as well as the perfect place for a sunset drink (chilled white wines always do), floating boats adding to the atmosphere.
Your exploration a long way to go, it is time to drive to Ruta, where a road across the pine forest will take you to the miniature hamlet of San Rocco, a panoramic balcony over the Golfo Paradiso (on clear days, even Genoa and the Riviera di Ponente lies before you in full view).
From San Rocco, a network of trails traverses the Monte in any direction: go down steep mule tracks and stairways and get to the wonder of Punta Chiappa and San Fruttuoso (for a less demanding alternative, turn to the ferry boat service from Camogli), famous for its emerald bay and for its amazing 13th century Doria abbey. Take time to visit the complex, and enjoy the silent peace of its cloister.
The Ruta tunnel is the entrance to the unexpected country landscape of San Lorenzo della Costa. Watch out for the junction to Santa Margherita and drive down gentle bends to the charm of this elegant resort, rich in graceful Art Nouveau villas and luxuriant gardens. Stroll around the historical centre, a maze of carruggi and vintage drogherie (groceries), and reach the coast: its stylish promenade is flanked by grand hotels and beaches, the marina resting in a miniature gulf...